So far I love living under martial law. With gatherings of more than 5 people banned, there aren't too many crowds, and the media, having been encouraged to be "responsible," are cheerily reporting an interim prime minister will be named in the next 48 hours. Despite an announcement the military may retain a wee bit of power even once the new congress has been appointed, so far so good on the bloodless coup.

In fact, the only violence I've heard was in the voice of a Thai banker, Nopporn, who twice a week feeds me lunch, reads the English-language newspaper out loud, and then hands me a wad of cash. "I hate George Bush," she said. "Why does he think he can tell other countries what to do? My country. My coup. Leave us alone!"

I'm not exactly sure what GWB said about the Thai coup, but I think my friend was irritated in general at the West's perception that a coup is perforce bad for democracy. I mean, I certainly understand why the West thinks this way, and in the long run, it does seem like a bad precedent for countries to solve their problems by routinely overturning the government.

(This from a woman who's adopted a slash-and-burn strategy for her entire life.)

What I think Nopporn was getting at, though, and what seems to be the common sentiment here, is that Thailand under Prime Minister Thaksin was a democracy in name only, and at least now there is a chance for an authentic democratic government.

This is also another opportunity to demonstrate allegience to the king, who people would just assume be in charge anyway. Nopporn laughed when she saw the Anglicized version of the military government's name was CDR, Committee for Democratic Reform. In Thai, the name is something like "We Swear Our Allegience to the King."

The king, the king. We don't see or hear much of him (cf., Flaubert, who says the writer should be in the book as God is in the world: nowhere seen but everywhere felt), although we do see a lot of baby-faced soldiers with machine guns at busy intersections and Sky Train stops. The first few days they looked stern. The second day they looked bored. Yesterday I saw one hand his weapon to a friend and start break dancing.

In other news, the military government has disallowed the Thais to have their pictures taken with the soldiers, and [belatedly] banned the go-go dancers in camoflauge bikinis who have taken it upon themselves to entertain the troops. Citizens are still welcome to bring the soldiers food.

We in the ex-pat world enjoy business as usual -- yoga, writing, swimming, a quiet Guiness with four friends or fewer in the evening.

Long live the junta!